Today is the end date of our program and some of my really good friends are leaving for the US. Naturally we have spent the last couple of days being nostalgic, reminiscing about how we met, the good and bad times we had and everything in between. To think you can become this close with people in such a short amount of time is astounding. I often forget that we don't all go to school together and that once we separate that's it. There will be no more late night ramen cookings, no more "whipping our hair back and forth", no spur of the moment side trips or hanging out at the "Player's Club". We are scattered to the wind never to all reunite under the same roof. My roommate Jazmine however is convinced that we need to have a 10 year reunion but really I believe that is too optimistic to believe that it will come true. Looking around at my friends I often wonder, "Would I have been friends with this person had we met at school?" To answer truthfully I feel that I have met so many different personalities that we would have never crossed paths should we have gone to the same school. While this thought saddens me I am also happy that this opportunity to meet and befriend so many cool and different people was even possible.
It's been a little over 4 months now and the time has literally flown by. I feel I've been here a grand total of like 3 weeks but then when I look over all the photos I've taken (923) I realize that I have seen so many amazing things and been part of so many unique experiences. While a part of me is happy to return home (eat some good food, visit old friends and see family) the majority of me wants to stay here. The other day I was walking back from Shiashie to Electricity (an hour's walk) and it hit me. This is not my home. I don't live here. I am not even from this country. This revelation shocked me because sometimes I feel that I do live here and that I am at home. How can this be? Is it because I love Ghana so much or is it because I've been thrown into this foreign country and forced to figure things out on my own? Whatever the reason it's made me think a lot about national and cultural identity and what my own identity is. This is not to say I never feel like a foreigner here because that would be just a bold-faced lie. Hearing the calls of "Oburoni! Oburoni!" or taxi drivers trying to overprice rides or men calling on the street, "I love you, white lady! I want to marry you!" never lets you forget that not only do you physically stand out here but that the way you move, talk and approach social situations also differ to that of this culture. In turn I feel I've amalgamated bits and pieces of the culture to create a person who is not only a foreigner here but will be one when I return to the US. My pace of life has slowed, my talking as well, the slang I use my American friends back home are confused by and the way I interact with people is different as well. I think I can bargain for anything and I've grown accustomed to drinking water out of plastic bags. I feel that I never really experienced culture shock coming here but that I will experience it when I return, something I feel many people will have trouble understanding unless they themselves studied in a developing country. Either way coming home will be bittersweet but seeing the people I love and have known for so many years will definitely help acclimate me back into American culture.
As my friends are leaving and my Ghanaian friends are realizing I leave soon as well I am always questioned with "Will you come back?" My immediate response is "Yes! Of course!" But then I begin to think and wonder if this is actually true or if the allure of traveling to new countries will be too tempting and visiting Ghana again will be put on the back-burner. The people I have met here have made this an incredible experience and I would be coming back to see them even if for only a little bit and not the 4.5 months I have spent here this semester. We will see what the future holds but I know that I would definitely be up for returning at some point in my life if only to eat some banku and okro soup.
With only 3 to 4 days left I have begun disassembling my room and beginning to pack away my things. It's strange because I will never see this dorm room again, a room that has so many memories of Jazmine (my roommate), of friends visiting, of oompa loompa dances, of drumming and dance sessions, food poisoning, malaria, and many other memories both enjoyable and ones that were not as fun. Seeing my room everyday was so commonplace that I never took a picture of it and now to take a picture of it would not be doing it justice due to its haphazard state and the process of packing. I've realized that the things I see everyday are the things you guys want to see most; trotros, wandering goats, my dorm room, campus, my Ghanaian friends, eating banku and fufu, etc. and yet these are the things I have no photos of. They now seem so common to me that I forget it's not common for everyone else to see back home. These last few days will be spent running around campus and Accra taking pictures of things that seem so inconsequential to me now but will seem so strange and foreign to my family and friends.
So as I sit here reflecting in my room of disarray I realize that my study abroad experience I could not have traded for the world. I think studying in Africa, a continent that gets you strange looks when you mention studying there, has taught me so many life lessons that I could not have learned elsewhere. I only hope studying abroad in Costa Rica next semester will be as eye-opening, educational and ultimately enjoyable as this experience has been. But now if there is one thing I have learned for next semester it is that I definitely need to take some Mac n' cheese, something I consider almost a delicacy after going so long without dairy products. :) Until I see you all, nante yie. And happy holidays.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Friday, December 10, 2010
Thanksgiving in a bus station, Mole National Park and Malaria
We arrived in Tamale at 8:30 AM the next day and toured the city a little bit. Not going to lie but there was really nothing to do/see in Tamale. And so Jack, Gustav and I made our way onto Larabanga via a 5 hour bus ride on a road infamous for its bumps and potholes. It really wasn't that bad though and we made our way to Larabanga around 7 PM and stayed at the Salia Brothers Guesthouse. We slept on the roof and there were so many stars. It was also extremely cold as well but was worth braving the cold in order to sleep under the stars and listen to the town's drums and the call to prayer in the morning (Northern Ghana is mostly Muslim).
The next morning we arose early in order to make the early morning safari walk in Mole National Park. We hired motorbikes and made our way to the park only to find out that we missed the morning walk by like 15 minutes and so we had to hang around until the afternoon walk that would be at 3:30 PM. Jack, Gustav and I just chilled at the Mole Motel, the only accommodation in the park. It overlooks a large watering hole that usually elephants and many other animals can be spotted. Unfortunately we did not see any at that time though.
The afternoon safari walk allowed us to see warthogs, bushbuck, baboons and kob. No elephants. But plenty of tracks though. Apparently this is not the best time to see elephants because it is not dry season and so they are not forced to come to this nearby watering hole and instead find water in the rest of the park's expanse (approximately 4840 square km). This just means that I will have to return to Ghana one day so that I may finally be able to see elephants. Even so the park was absolutely gorgeous and we were even able to camp there which actually was a bit frightening since we were awoken in the middle of the night by piercing baboon screams.
The next morning after a sunrise safari walk we were on our way to the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in the Upper West Region. We grabbed motorbikes from Mole back to Larabanga and only made it just in time to catch the MMT bus to Wa. Wa is the capital of the Bole District in the Upper West Region and has a population of approximately 80,000. It was a neat little town and was what the guide book described as "unimposing". I had been wearing shorts when we arrived there and I was starting to get some strange looks. I realized that no other female around me had pants or skirts/dresses that were above the knee and so I quickly changed so as not to offend the mostly Muslim population.
After hopping a trotro to Wechiau we then made our way to the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary Tourist Centre where we rented bikes to make it to the sanctuary. It was an 18 km ride which would have been I think a little more fun if one the road was paved, and two if we hadn't biked at midday in the scorching sun/heat. Finally arriving, I was so tired I proceeded to nap. And nap. And nap. Until finally I realized that I was sick and was having trouble moving due to stiffness. I was also so incredibly HOT probably because I was running a 104 degree fever in the middle of the savanna. And let me tell you, we were literally in the middle of the savanna/i.e. nowhere. That first night was really rough and I thought at first I might feel better in the morning, when we were supposed to do our canoe safari/hippo viewing. But unfortunately this did not happen. I only proceeded to get worse and worse, not being able to take any food/water before throwing it back up and my fever and stiffness were unmanageable. Once my friends realized how serious my condition was they agreed that I needed to go to the clinic in Wechiau. My guide thought that I'd be able to bike the 18km back to Wechiau and I told him that he was for lack of a better word, "insane". Magically an air-conditioned SUV appeared and offered me a ride back to Wechiau/the clinic there.
Walking into the Wechiau Clinic was a strange experience. There was a long queue, about 50 people waiting to be treated, mostly mothers with their sick children. And what happens? They put the "oburoni" to the front of the line. I felt so incredibly bad and protested but they would not have it. I felt so incredibly guilty and tried to express in my face how sorry and guilty I felt for being put to the front of the line simply because I am white. It made me realize why some Ghanaians view "oburonis" in a negative light because of the special treatment we sometimes receive.
Meeting with the doctor and explaining my symptoms he then told me that they could not test for malaria because as he said "their lab man had traveled". He supposed that it was malaria and so just gave me the medicine for it. Only problem was I couldn't keep anything down, including the medicine.
Realizing I needed to get back to Accra to go to the University Hospital my friends and I traveled back to Wa (via trotro and with me throwing up the entire ride). We had booked bus tickets for Wednesday (this now being Tuesday) and so we stayed in the Seinu Hotel, the hotel we stayed at the first time in Wa. We didn't notice until the second time around but see that ripped off sign on the front door? Well that was sign from the Ghana Tourist Board stating that the hotel be shut down immediately due to faulty wiring, etc. It actually was a pretty decent hotel in my opinion but it was funny to see all the same.
On Wednesday our bus was to leave at 5:30 PM. This meant that I just slept on a bench the entire day at the O & A bus station while Jack and Gustav explored Wa. Not only was it hot (especially with a fever) but I was very delirious as well. Apparently (I don't remember this) but I called my mom at work and left a message describing/listing all the food I wanted when I got home. As you can tell, I was a little out of it and couldn't wait to be back in Accra or even home. Being sick I've realized definitely makes you homesick which only makes things worse.
The bus ride that proceeded was THE WORST NIGHT OF MY ENTIRE LIFE. One, the road is infamous for being bumpy and when you are nauseous and throwing up this does not bode well. On top of it the bus was freezing which was good for my feverish head but not for the chills in my body. Then from 7 PM to 4 AM they played Ghanaian movies on the TV so loudly. Ghanaian movies tend to be very dramatic and include a lot of fighting, yelling, rape scenes, etc. (think Spanish soap operas). Every time I fell asleep I was either awoken by the movies, throwing up or by the horrific nauseous feeling. The ride back to Accra was horrible and I hope I never have to go through that experience again.
We arrived at the Achimota bus station at around 5 AM. We then hailed a taxi to take us to the emergency room at the University Hospital across from campus. As we were driving through West Legon our cab started to slow down due to early morning traffic. I was sitting in the passenger seat with the window down and my wallet underneath my legs and one of my hands holding it. THEN (!) out of the bushes/hedge to the right leaps a man who reaches in to the cab and grabs my wallet. Fortunately I was holding on too tightly for him to get it and he gave up and ran back in to the bushes. So to recap: I am exhausted and on my way to the emergency room to be treated for malaria when I am almost robbed. Can things get any worse? Yes, yes they can.
In the emergency room with Gustav and Jack I am so exhausted and frazzled I am just sitting there. Then to our right and through the front door 4 men roll a young man in on a gurney. He looks unconscious and has no visible injury on him. They take him into the open hallway (5 ft in front of me) where the doctor pronounces him dead (checks his pulse and lifts his arm to watch it slap back onto the metal gurney). This is where I lost it. Not only am I irrationally thinking I am going to die (give me a break, I was really sick and exhausted and not thinking clearly) but to see this young man be pronounced dead in front of his family and friends and to see their grief was almost unbearable. I start crying hysterically because I don't think I can handle anymore. I have never seen a dead body outside a funeral and to be honest it scared me a bit. Seeing his family grieve too was especially difficult to bear. What is worse is they just left him there in the open hallway. There was no morgue. They don't even cover his body and so everyone in the emergency room waiting to be treated has to witness this dead body, reminding them of their own mortality. Finally once the family has arranged transport (a beat up pick-up truck) they wrap the young man in a "The Hulk" blanket and put him in the bed of the pickup truck with his family sitting around the edges. It was one of the saddest things I have ever seen and I know I will remember it forever.
After receiving injections and medications I made my way back to Pentagon (my dorm) and just rested. My Twi final was to be the next day but I was in no condition to study. Let's just say my Twi final the next day did not fare so well and fortunately Tulane is not going to count that class towards my GPA due to medical reasons.
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| Elephant tracks |
The next morning after a sunrise safari walk we were on our way to the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in the Upper West Region. We grabbed motorbikes from Mole back to Larabanga and only made it just in time to catch the MMT bus to Wa. Wa is the capital of the Bole District in the Upper West Region and has a population of approximately 80,000. It was a neat little town and was what the guide book described as "unimposing". I had been wearing shorts when we arrived there and I was starting to get some strange looks. I realized that no other female around me had pants or skirts/dresses that were above the knee and so I quickly changed so as not to offend the mostly Muslim population.
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| Jack in the Tourist Centre |
Walking into the Wechiau Clinic was a strange experience. There was a long queue, about 50 people waiting to be treated, mostly mothers with their sick children. And what happens? They put the "oburoni" to the front of the line. I felt so incredibly bad and protested but they would not have it. I felt so incredibly guilty and tried to express in my face how sorry and guilty I felt for being put to the front of the line simply because I am white. It made me realize why some Ghanaians view "oburonis" in a negative light because of the special treatment we sometimes receive.
Meeting with the doctor and explaining my symptoms he then told me that they could not test for malaria because as he said "their lab man had traveled". He supposed that it was malaria and so just gave me the medicine for it. Only problem was I couldn't keep anything down, including the medicine.
On Wednesday our bus was to leave at 5:30 PM. This meant that I just slept on a bench the entire day at the O & A bus station while Jack and Gustav explored Wa. Not only was it hot (especially with a fever) but I was very delirious as well. Apparently (I don't remember this) but I called my mom at work and left a message describing/listing all the food I wanted when I got home. As you can tell, I was a little out of it and couldn't wait to be back in Accra or even home. Being sick I've realized definitely makes you homesick which only makes things worse.
The bus ride that proceeded was THE WORST NIGHT OF MY ENTIRE LIFE. One, the road is infamous for being bumpy and when you are nauseous and throwing up this does not bode well. On top of it the bus was freezing which was good for my feverish head but not for the chills in my body. Then from 7 PM to 4 AM they played Ghanaian movies on the TV so loudly. Ghanaian movies tend to be very dramatic and include a lot of fighting, yelling, rape scenes, etc. (think Spanish soap operas). Every time I fell asleep I was either awoken by the movies, throwing up or by the horrific nauseous feeling. The ride back to Accra was horrible and I hope I never have to go through that experience again.
We arrived at the Achimota bus station at around 5 AM. We then hailed a taxi to take us to the emergency room at the University Hospital across from campus. As we were driving through West Legon our cab started to slow down due to early morning traffic. I was sitting in the passenger seat with the window down and my wallet underneath my legs and one of my hands holding it. THEN (!) out of the bushes/hedge to the right leaps a man who reaches in to the cab and grabs my wallet. Fortunately I was holding on too tightly for him to get it and he gave up and ran back in to the bushes. So to recap: I am exhausted and on my way to the emergency room to be treated for malaria when I am almost robbed. Can things get any worse? Yes, yes they can.
In the emergency room with Gustav and Jack I am so exhausted and frazzled I am just sitting there. Then to our right and through the front door 4 men roll a young man in on a gurney. He looks unconscious and has no visible injury on him. They take him into the open hallway (5 ft in front of me) where the doctor pronounces him dead (checks his pulse and lifts his arm to watch it slap back onto the metal gurney). This is where I lost it. Not only am I irrationally thinking I am going to die (give me a break, I was really sick and exhausted and not thinking clearly) but to see this young man be pronounced dead in front of his family and friends and to see their grief was almost unbearable. I start crying hysterically because I don't think I can handle anymore. I have never seen a dead body outside a funeral and to be honest it scared me a bit. Seeing his family grieve too was especially difficult to bear. What is worse is they just left him there in the open hallway. There was no morgue. They don't even cover his body and so everyone in the emergency room waiting to be treated has to witness this dead body, reminding them of their own mortality. Finally once the family has arranged transport (a beat up pick-up truck) they wrap the young man in a "The Hulk" blanket and put him in the bed of the pickup truck with his family sitting around the edges. It was one of the saddest things I have ever seen and I know I will remember it forever.
After receiving injections and medications I made my way back to Pentagon (my dorm) and just rested. My Twi final was to be the next day but I was in no condition to study. Let's just say my Twi final the next day did not fare so well and fortunately Tulane is not going to count that class towards my GPA due to medical reasons.
And so concludes my trip to the North. Overall I would say it was a great experience (besides contracting malaria) but it allowed me to see sights I never would have seen near Accra and taught me a lot of life lessons. I know that one day I will return and finally get to see the elephants and hippos that I had planned to see in the first place and this time I will do the trip right (i.e. not get malaria/sick during the trip). See you soon. Nante yie.
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Monkeys, Beaches, and Hydroelectric dams
Hello everyone. First I must apologize for not updating this as much as I'd like to or even as much as you guys would like me to. And so here I go...
The lecturer strike was officially called off about two weeks ago and classes resumed with the Ghanaian students. Classes are a lot better now. Unfortunately though the semester has been extended for the Ghanaian students and their classes/finals don't end until like the beginning of January and they only have Christmas off. Crazy. Fortunately though the international students are taking their finals in early December since we have to leave. Our program ends December 12th and I fly back Dec. 15th so I will get to see everyone over Christmas break.
Moving on, two weekends ago we traveled to Akosombo to see the Akosombo hydroelectric dam. Technically speaking though this structure is not a dam and rather it is an "embankment" since it is made entirely of natural materials (rock, clay, etc.). This embankment provides 65% of Ghana's energy and also supplies energy to neighboring countries such as Burkina Faso to the north, Togo and Benin to the east and Cote d'Ivoire to the west. This structure has created the largest manmade lake in the world measuring 12 times the size of Singapore. The embankment has gone into record/history books as the best "dam" in the world since it has not needed any renovation or reconstruction since its construction.
It was really cool to see and walk along the dam and to think about all the benefits and consequences that it has brought with it since its construction in the 1960s. It was crazy to put it into perspective because while the environmentalist side of me disliked the dam and was listing all the environmental hazards it had brought with it, the "development" side of me saw the massive benefits that had stemmed from damming the Volta River. It was a really cool experience and one that I think I enjoyed more than my friends did. :)
After visiting the dam we traveled to the Shai Hills Game Reserve. Originally we were to drive through the reserve in our bus but as it had rained that morning the vehicle could not make the trek, but we could. And so we set out on a two hour trek/hike that none of us had been prepared for. We were trekking through mud in flip-flops, skirts, dresses, etc. Even so it was still a lot of fun and the views afforded at the top of one of the mountains we scaled was absolutely beautiful and looked like a scene out of "The Lion King". It was so stereotypically "African" looking that I almost couldn't believe the landscape.
Anyway the beach was absolutely gorgeous and the waves were absolutely huge. It was common to see people getting knocked down by these waves but it was so much fun. One morning my friend and I decided to take a sunrise walk along the beach away from the lodge. Once we got a little ways from the lodge there was all this trash on the beach. It was so sad and my friend and I decided that while we couldn't pick up all of it we would collect as much as we could. We found a huge plastic bag and began collecting all the styrofoam, plastic pieces, bags, etc. that we could fit in this bag. During our walk back (with arms full of trash we collected) it began storming on us. It was so beautiful to be walking on the beach in a thunderstorm at sunrise. Once we got back to the lodge we got so many weird looks for carrying a bag of trash back from the beach. You would have thought we committed a crime or something and the people working at the lodge were hesitant to allow us to throw it away at the lodge. It was so strange because all these tourists and workers were at an eco-lodge and yet they couldn't comprehend why we would pick up some trash that we found along the beach. It was a bit aggravating and made me realize that people talk the talk but don't actually walk the walk. Even so the beach was absolutely beautiful and the trip was very relaxing.
The lecturer strike was officially called off about two weeks ago and classes resumed with the Ghanaian students. Classes are a lot better now. Unfortunately though the semester has been extended for the Ghanaian students and their classes/finals don't end until like the beginning of January and they only have Christmas off. Crazy. Fortunately though the international students are taking their finals in early December since we have to leave. Our program ends December 12th and I fly back Dec. 15th so I will get to see everyone over Christmas break.
Moving on, two weekends ago we traveled to Akosombo to see the Akosombo hydroelectric dam. Technically speaking though this structure is not a dam and rather it is an "embankment" since it is made entirely of natural materials (rock, clay, etc.). This embankment provides 65% of Ghana's energy and also supplies energy to neighboring countries such as Burkina Faso to the north, Togo and Benin to the east and Cote d'Ivoire to the west. This structure has created the largest manmade lake in the world measuring 12 times the size of Singapore. The embankment has gone into record/history books as the best "dam" in the world since it has not needed any renovation or reconstruction since its construction.
It was really cool to see and walk along the dam and to think about all the benefits and consequences that it has brought with it since its construction in the 1960s. It was crazy to put it into perspective because while the environmentalist side of me disliked the dam and was listing all the environmental hazards it had brought with it, the "development" side of me saw the massive benefits that had stemmed from damming the Volta River. It was a really cool experience and one that I think I enjoyed more than my friends did. :)
After visiting the dam we traveled to the Shai Hills Game Reserve. Originally we were to drive through the reserve in our bus but as it had rained that morning the vehicle could not make the trek, but we could. And so we set out on a two hour trek/hike that none of us had been prepared for. We were trekking through mud in flip-flops, skirts, dresses, etc. Even so it was still a lot of fun and the views afforded at the top of one of the mountains we scaled was absolutely beautiful and looked like a scene out of "The Lion King". It was so stereotypically "African" looking that I almost couldn't believe the landscape. 
The reserve is also where we got to see baboons! I must have taken like a hundred photos of these baboons because even though they were used to humans it was still really interesting to see wild baboons. Some people even fed them bananas and mangoes but they were starting to become aggressive and so we had to stop. We got to see like an entire group of them including alpha male and female and even a baby baboon.
This past weekend I traveled to Safari Beach a very secluded beach near the fishing village of Akwidaa. We stayed at the Green Turtle Lodge, an eco-lodge with composting toilets, solar powered lights and focuses on green turtle conservation. This tourist lodge made the best food; I had French toast with honey and baked bananas and coffee and it was so delicious. I have not had coffee since coming here and I have missed it. Also there is no other way to enjoy breakfast than overlooking the ocean.
Anyway the beach was absolutely gorgeous and the waves were absolutely huge. It was common to see people getting knocked down by these waves but it was so much fun. One morning my friend and I decided to take a sunrise walk along the beach away from the lodge. Once we got a little ways from the lodge there was all this trash on the beach. It was so sad and my friend and I decided that while we couldn't pick up all of it we would collect as much as we could. We found a huge plastic bag and began collecting all the styrofoam, plastic pieces, bags, etc. that we could fit in this bag. During our walk back (with arms full of trash we collected) it began storming on us. It was so beautiful to be walking on the beach in a thunderstorm at sunrise. Once we got back to the lodge we got so many weird looks for carrying a bag of trash back from the beach. You would have thought we committed a crime or something and the people working at the lodge were hesitant to allow us to throw it away at the lodge. It was so strange because all these tourists and workers were at an eco-lodge and yet they couldn't comprehend why we would pick up some trash that we found along the beach. It was a bit aggravating and made me realize that people talk the talk but don't actually walk the walk. Even so the beach was absolutely beautiful and the trip was very relaxing. |
| Akwidaa, the fishing village nearby |
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| Sunrise |
During my time there I went on a canoe trip through the mangrove forest. I got to see a toucan, mangrove crabs and the African version of squirrels. We went at sunrise and it was really cool and made me think about doing field research in mangrove forests because they are such an unique and endangered type of habitat.
Trips and adventures like these make me realize just how much I love traveling and makes me not want to come home. I propose that all of you come to visit me instead. Nante yie. :)
Monday, October 18, 2010
Togo, food poisoning, lecturer strike and Kumasi
So I've been really busy these past couple of weeks and as a result time has flown by. It makes me so sad because I'm having so much fun that I don't want time to pass at all. Traveling around has been such a crazy adventure and has definitely taught me that no matter how much you plan out something, something will always throw you for a loop.
First of all I traveled to Lome, Togo with some friends one weekend. Lome is the capital of Togo and is a beautiful beach town. It's about a 4 hour trotro ride from Accra but believe me, it was a different world. They speak French in Togo and I unfortunately do not. Luckily I had some friends along with me who were actually pretty fluent and were able to translate everything. Also instead of using car taxis they used motorcycle taxis. Crazy, and yet so much fun. It is a little daunting at first to be riding on the back of a motorcycle with some random driver but then you look around and realize that you are on the back of a motorcycle riding along the oceanside while in Togo.
I had so much fun in Togo swimming, walking around, riding motorcycles, etc. that was until I got food poisoning from a "Togolese salad" that I ate while there. It didn't hit me until Sunday night as soon as I returned to Accra. The next couple of days were let's just say, not fun. Even so the trip to Togo was amazing and I was able to renew my Ghanaian visa and get a really cool visa stamp from Togo in my passport. I want to go back so badly. I may have to stop over again before I leave (but this time be sure to avoid the salad). :)
I have also been stressing a little bit over the lecturer strike. It's now the third week that the professors have been on strike. Some professors have agreed to teach international students so that we may receive credit for our classes but others have refused to do this. And since the student body has found out about this agreement there is now talk of a student protest since they feel it's unfair that international students be taught and not them. While I agree with their point, I'm just really ready for things to go back to normal and for classes to resume (with the Ghanaian students). Class is not as much fun when it's just two "oburonis" for two hours with the professor. Slightly weird.
This past weekend we went to Kumasi. While there I was able to visit what is thought to be the "largest market in West Africa". It was huge and I believe deserves the title of the "largest market". You could literally buy anything there. I saw everything from snails, okra, adapters, clothes, soap, dvds, clothes, etc. It was so chaotic and yet functioned perfectly well at the same time. While there I bought some beautiful fabric that I plan to get a dress made out of as well as a bag. Every time I see batik fabric I can't help myself, I have to buy some because it is so beautiful. You guys can be sure that you are receiving some once I return. :)
First of all I traveled to Lome, Togo with some friends one weekend. Lome is the capital of Togo and is a beautiful beach town. It's about a 4 hour trotro ride from Accra but believe me, it was a different world. They speak French in Togo and I unfortunately do not. Luckily I had some friends along with me who were actually pretty fluent and were able to translate everything. Also instead of using car taxis they used motorcycle taxis. Crazy, and yet so much fun. It is a little daunting at first to be riding on the back of a motorcycle with some random driver but then you look around and realize that you are on the back of a motorcycle riding along the oceanside while in Togo.
I had so much fun in Togo swimming, walking around, riding motorcycles, etc. that was until I got food poisoning from a "Togolese salad" that I ate while there. It didn't hit me until Sunday night as soon as I returned to Accra. The next couple of days were let's just say, not fun. Even so the trip to Togo was amazing and I was able to renew my Ghanaian visa and get a really cool visa stamp from Togo in my passport. I want to go back so badly. I may have to stop over again before I leave (but this time be sure to avoid the salad). :)
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| Oceanside road in Lome, Togo |
I have also been stressing a little bit over the lecturer strike. It's now the third week that the professors have been on strike. Some professors have agreed to teach international students so that we may receive credit for our classes but others have refused to do this. And since the student body has found out about this agreement there is now talk of a student protest since they feel it's unfair that international students be taught and not them. While I agree with their point, I'm just really ready for things to go back to normal and for classes to resume (with the Ghanaian students). Class is not as much fun when it's just two "oburonis" for two hours with the professor. Slightly weird.
This past weekend we went to Kumasi. While there I was able to visit what is thought to be the "largest market in West Africa". It was huge and I believe deserves the title of the "largest market". You could literally buy anything there. I saw everything from snails, okra, adapters, clothes, soap, dvds, clothes, etc. It was so chaotic and yet functioned perfectly well at the same time. While there I bought some beautiful fabric that I plan to get a dress made out of as well as a bag. Every time I see batik fabric I can't help myself, I have to buy some because it is so beautiful. You guys can be sure that you are receiving some once I return. :)
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| Storefronts on the outskirts of the market |
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| Crossing the road in front of the Kumasi Market |
Time has literally flown by here. It's so crazy that I've been able to see so many things in such a little time and I'm sad that the semester is going by so quickly. Everyday I learn something new be it language, culture, customs, etc. As a result I've begun to pick up some of the Ghanaian mannerisms and sayings. I have often thought about how strange I'm going to sound back in the US using things like "Chale!" (equivalent of "dude" or "bro") or trying to bargain for prices. I think I'm even going to miss hearing "Oburoni!" whenever I walk by a group of people. Anyhow I'm beginning to ramble a bit so I think I'll end here. :) Nante yie.
P.S. Vivian, think about going to Togo. Beautiful beaches. Hahaha. :)
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
I swear not all I'm doing here is seeing waterfalls...
My weekends usually consist of traveling throughout the country trying to visit as much as possible before I have to leave this amazing country. It is fun to get out of the hustle and bustle of Accra every so often and see some of the beautiful sights that Ghana has to offer. In particular Ghanaians have been telling me that I need to visit the Volta Region. I would always question why but they could never give me a clear answer as to why I should visit this particular region. Finally I had the opportunity to do so this past weekend. And let me just tell you, everyone should visit the Volta Region.
Before visiting the Volta Region I traveled on Friday with some of my friends to a festival in Aburi, about an hour's trotro ride from campus. This festival consisted of many different chiefs and sub-chiefs coming together in a show of unity to promote development in Ghana. It was very interesting to see the similarities between this festival and some Mardi Gras parades that I have seen before with the festive colors, use of parasols, bands, etc. The fabrics worn throughout the parade/festival were absolutely gorgeous and everyone was dressed up singing and dancing throughout the streets. I was even able to join in the procession at one point.
Over the weekend I finally had the chance to travel to the Volta Region and I was not disappointed. We climbed to the summit of Mt. Afadjato, the tallest mountain in Ghana. The guide book stated that round trip the hike would only take 2 hours. This however was untrue, especially when you have to hike up a mountain in the pouring rain. At first I was disappointed that it had started to pour and but once I took a step back and evaluated again I realized that I was in the middle of a thunderstorm in a rainforest in Ghana climbing the tallest summit in the country. It was a once in a lifetime experience and was well worth traversing in the rain simply for the views and the feeling of accomplishment felt once reaching the top. The views were absolutely breathtaking and in no way do these pictures capture just how amazing the views truly were. In addition to this while on the summit we were even able to hear drums playing in a village in the valley.
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| Notice the English? |
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| Overlooking Togo |
I am so glad that I was able to visit the Volta Region. Not only did I get to see incredible sights but the people there were so unbelievably nice. It was a different side of Ghana and I am so happy I had the chance to see it. If I was to live in Ghana I would definitely live in the Volta Region because of the spectacular natural sights, the friendly people and overall atmosphere.
Focusing on campus now, this week the professors are on strike. All the lecturers (what they call professors) of public universities in the country are on strike for better pay. This of course means there are no classes this week. Hopefully they resume next week because if the strike continues for too long I can miss out on school credit. I believe things will work out; apparently this has happened before and is a normal occurrence. Even so it is just one more thing that I would not have expected to encounter in the US where I take it for granted that professors will actually show up to their own lectures. This week then I plan on catching up on sleep, work and planning the rest of the side trips I intend to take this semester.
Anyway I hope everyone is doing well. If any of you ever come to Ghana don't forget to visit the Volta Region. :) I heard that Ghana was featured on "The Amazing Race". Mom told me that they went to Makola Market, a giant market in downtown Accra and that you guys noticed how busy traffic and everything else was there. While Accra is a lot like this you must remember that Ghana is not just Accra, just like the United States is not just New York City but really so much more. I hope this blog has been able to show you some of the more relaxed, beautiful, less stressful sides of Ghana (probably like Vivian's Conde Nast article displayed). :) Nante yie.
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| Hill overlooking Legon (where campus is) |
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Your persistence finally paid off...
Hello everyone! My initial thought was to not keep a blog during my time here in Ghana because I wanted to focus more on experiencing Ghana rather than worrying what I was going to write. Only I didn't expect the numerous emails and phone calls demanding that I keep a blog and to post my photos! :) And so I am finally caving in and starting a blog. We'll see how this goes, this being the first time I've ever done this.
I'm just now starting my 8th week here. It's crazy that I've been gone for almost 2 months because at one time it feels like its been 2 months simply because of all the things I've seen but at the same time it doesn't feel like it at all! There is no way that I can try and bring everyone up to speed on what I've been experiencing here but I'm going to attempt to give a little insight into my travels.
So far I've traveled to a little beach town called Senya-Brekau and stayed the night in old slave fort named Fort Good Hope, ironic name huh? Anyway it was a beautiful little town but my time there made me realize just how much poverty can warp one's view of the world. When the "oburonis" (Twi for outsiders or 'white man') decided to go on the beach we were confronted by a group of guys who wanted us to give them "sentiments" because we were on "their beach". Fortunately we were able to convince them that we had nothing to give them and they left us alone. It makes you realize how poverty can alter someone's world view so much that they believe all Americans are rich and entitled and therefore are obligated to give handouts especially to make up for what they considered "the White rape of Africa".
I know that I've expressed this story before and it made some of you believe that I'm being accosted all the time, but it's not true! This was the only time that I felt slightly scared here and so this story has stuck with me and I believe will continue to stick with me for some time. It was a learning experience that I continue to reflect on.
Moving on to other adventures, one weekend a group of us girl "oburonis" traveled to Koforidua, a town near Boti Falls. During our weekend getaway we hiked in the mountains, swam in the gorgeous falls and explored Koforidua also known as "Koff Town". Everything was so much cheaper than in Accra which I thoroughly enjoyed. Usually cabs in Accra cost like 5-8 Ghana Cedi but the most expensive taxi we had in Koff town was 3 Ghana Cedi (US $2). Also the falls we visited were absolutely gorgeous. There were all these signs to warn us not to swim but that is only because most Ghanaians cannot swim. It's strange that something that all my friends know how to do in the US most people cannot do here simply because they have no opportunities to learn. Even people who live on the coast do not/cannot swim because they respect the power of the ocean too much. Even so we ignored the signs and went swimming, the water was at most 4ft deep.
Last weekend we traveled to Cape Coast to visit El Mina Castle, the infamous slave fort that sent slaves to the Americas. The slave castle is the oldest European building in all of Africa being around 500 years old. It was a very strange day. When you visit you notice that the slave fort is on a hill overlooking the town of Cape Coast and is a daunting sight, a constant reminder to the people what occurred there. Touring the castle they showed us the dungeons that the slaves were kept in, the "door of no return" and many other horrific scenes. It's one thing to read about the slave trade in textbooks and quite another thing to witness the actual place these atrocities were committed. What was even stranger was that you could smell the castle. A smell that made you sick once you thought how long it took for the smell to accumulate there and still exist centuries later. It was a very sobering experience and was one of the saddest things I have ever witnessed.
P.S. I miss grocery stores and being able to choose variety in my diet. :) Don't get me wrong I do love the food here although sometimes you just want something different ya know? Cioci sent me some chicken noodle soup and it was amazing. I made a huge pot and all of us "oburonis" had some and it was such a great reminder of home. Thanks so much Cioci!
I'm just now starting my 8th week here. It's crazy that I've been gone for almost 2 months because at one time it feels like its been 2 months simply because of all the things I've seen but at the same time it doesn't feel like it at all! There is no way that I can try and bring everyone up to speed on what I've been experiencing here but I'm going to attempt to give a little insight into my travels.
So far I've traveled to a little beach town called Senya-Brekau and stayed the night in old slave fort named Fort Good Hope, ironic name huh? Anyway it was a beautiful little town but my time there made me realize just how much poverty can warp one's view of the world. When the "oburonis" (Twi for outsiders or 'white man') decided to go on the beach we were confronted by a group of guys who wanted us to give them "sentiments" because we were on "their beach". Fortunately we were able to convince them that we had nothing to give them and they left us alone. It makes you realize how poverty can alter someone's world view so much that they believe all Americans are rich and entitled and therefore are obligated to give handouts especially to make up for what they considered "the White rape of Africa".
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| Senya-Brekau |
Moving on to other adventures, one weekend a group of us girl "oburonis" traveled to Koforidua, a town near Boti Falls. During our weekend getaway we hiked in the mountains, swam in the gorgeous falls and explored Koforidua also known as "Koff Town". Everything was so much cheaper than in Accra which I thoroughly enjoyed. Usually cabs in Accra cost like 5-8 Ghana Cedi but the most expensive taxi we had in Koff town was 3 Ghana Cedi (US $2). Also the falls we visited were absolutely gorgeous. There were all these signs to warn us not to swim but that is only because most Ghanaians cannot swim. It's strange that something that all my friends know how to do in the US most people cannot do here simply because they have no opportunities to learn. Even people who live on the coast do not/cannot swim because they respect the power of the ocean too much. Even so we ignored the signs and went swimming, the water was at most 4ft deep.
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| Boti Falls |
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| El Mina Castle The same weekend of El Mina we also visited Kakum National Park, a park famous for its "canopy walkway". This consisted of a rope bridge/walkway through the treetops that measured about 40 meters in height. It was a little scary but was well worth traversing simply for the amazing views it offered. In this forest there are elephants but our group consisted of too many people making noise for us to see any. It's ok, I'll get to see elephants once I travel to Mole National Park in the north. Even so the park was absolutely gorgeous and I couldn't believe just how green it was.  There is no way that I can tell of all the amazing and different things I have encountered during my time here in Ghana. Later I will update on how my classes are, how my dorm room is, riding in trotros, etc. Overall I hope that this post (and really this blog) will satisfy everyone’s curiosity. Thanks everyone for showing so much interest! I cannot wait until I see everyone again, until then “nante yie” (safe journey). |
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